Do you know about - How to Change Your Oil Yourself
Valvoline Oil Change Locations! Again, for I know. Ready to share new things that are useful. You and your friends.There's no big mystery about how your cars oil is changed. Most of us are just too lazy to find out. Or you think you're going to mess up your car by doing it. Well, it probably comes as a surprise to most people that the only downside to changing your own oil is that you don't get oil change stickers to remind you of when to do it again. However, don't take my lax approach to the subject as an indication that this isn't an important auto service. It's probably the MOST important part of maintaining and servicing your vehicle. It just happens to be one of the more accessible. There are any number of auto repair shops out there from Denver to Minneapolis, AAMCO to NAPA that would be more than willing to take your money to perform this simple operation. My suggestion is to save your money for when you have to dish it out on things like front end alignment and brake service; and just learn to do this yourself.
What I said. It isn't outcome that the real about Valvoline Oil Change Locations. You check out this article for info on an individual wish to know is Valvoline Oil Change Locations.How is How to Change Your Oil Yourself
We had a good read. For the benefit of yourself. Be sure to read to the end. I want you to get good knowledge from Valvoline Oil Change Locations.That being said, there are some things to consider before you take on this task yourself. Do you have the right tools and a location that you can safely do it? You will need an oil pan (usually a large paint tray will do the trick) and a socket wrench. However, it also depends on how old your car is whether or not it's a great idea to do it yourself. Most of your older cars you'll be good to go. Their components are pretty straight forward and easily accessible. But if you sprung for a hybrid or super fancy foreign car within the last decade, you may consider letting the guy that sat in a class for 6 months learning about it take care of the job. There are many options to choose from when you go this route from Jiffy Lube to your local guy on the corner. Mostly it will cost about 10 bucks, but most of the chain places have packages that include detailing for an extra . I don't know about you, but someone vacuuming my car for me is worth twice that amount.
Well, I guess since you continued reading, you're determined to do this thing yourself. So the first thing you need to know is how often to change your oil. Most grease monkeys recommend that you do it every 3,000 miles or every 3 months. Whichever happens to come first. This is actually a pretty conservative number for most people. Now, if you're going up to the ski lodge hauling your 3 ton trailer behind you in stop n go traffic; you might want to rigorously hold yourself to those numbers, if not more often. However, if you're not a weekend warrior and just use your car for everyday use, then you should just aim for it. Don't kick yourself for going over because your engine will probably be fine. And if you're using synthetic oil like Valvoline, you could probably even take it up to 5,000 miles and be alright.
Now that I've gotten all the warnings and "be careful" stuff out of the way, let get down to business.
You're going to need the following:
3/8-drive socket A combination wrench set An oil filter wrench A container for the old oil (like I said, a large paint tray will work) Several empty gallon milk jugs with screw on caps Two funnels A quart Ziploc bag Something to put under you and the area where you drain the oil (i.e. old newspapers) Latex or plastic gloves (if you're sensitive about getting your hands dirty) A new oil filter (check your owner's manual for size) Enough oil to replace what you drain (see the back of your owner's manual for number of quarts and grade. Try and use brands like Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State, etc. There's a reason they're so popular.)
Before you get started, find a flat spot where your car sits evenly. Preferably your drive way, but if it has to be the street, I guess that will work too. Just try not to get hit. Now, before you get all Dukes of Hazard on me, take your car for a spin around the block or until the temperature gauge starts to register. This will heat up your oil and make it MUCH easier to drain. If you skip this step, a 15 minute job could easily take you an hour while you wait for cold, thick oil to ooze its way out. Once you're done, park it in the spot you found before leaving. If you live anywhere near me, hopefully it's still there.
Now it's time to get dirty:
Make sure your engine is turned off. Then, apply the parking brake firmly and put it in gear. For extra safety, block off your tires with bricks or whatever you have that's heavy and will fit behind your tires. Then line up your tools next to your car. Slide under your car and find the oil drain plug. If you're a big boy like me, you may have to jack up the car and secure it on a jackstand. DO NOT get under a car supported only by a jack. Use a jackstand. I can't stress this enough. Seriously. I think you know why. Once you've found the oil drain plug, make sure that it's actually the oil drain plug. It should be the one hovering closest to the ground, however there is also a transmission drain plug. To check, the metal around the oil plug should be a lot hotter than around the transmission plug. If you're still not sure, stop and get the help of someone that does. Once you find it, get your socket set and start checking to find a size that fits the nut around the plug. Next, put on your gloves and grab the socket wrench with the right socket on it. It's the one that fit from the last step. Fit it over the nut and turn it counter-clockwise. You may really have to work at it. But don't force it too much. If you're having major trouble, switch to the same size close end wrench. Once you crack it, work it slightly loose with your fingers. Don't go too far or you'll get oil everywhere. Once your plug is where you want it to be, lay down the newspaper and whatever else you don't care about underneath the car. Make sure you leave room to cover the oil filter because it will continue to drip after you remove it. Now look up into your engine. There should be a weird, upside down mountain thing in there. That's your oil filter. Get your drain pan and put it directly under the plug. If the plug points off to the side, adjust the positioning. Now loosen the plug and put it aside. Most of the oil will drain in about 2-3 minutes. You've got an oil filter wrench last I told you to right? Get it. Using the short extension, slip the oil filter wrench onto the socket wrench. Now set it to choke in only the counter-clockwise direction. Slip it over the oil filter and give a pull on it. Once you crack it, do the rest by hand. This one's probably not that hard to get off. Now be careful, the oil in there is really, really hot; so don't stick your face under it. I hate that I have to say that. But seriously, don't stick your face under it. Now, remove the oil filter carefully and pour its oil into your drain pan. Then place the used oil filter right side up on your floor cover. Making sure that the drain pan is still in place, slide out from under your car and open your hood. Remove the oil filler cap and set it aside. This will help release pressure so your oil will drain faster. Now sit there and wait. You don't have to, but it's better to wait as long as possible to get back to it. I'm not talking a full day or anything, but as much as an hour will do wonders on getting every drop of old oil out. Now that you're back in business and have finally seen the end of the new Stallone flick that you only caught the beginning of, take your finger and dip it in the oil pan. I know it sounds ridiculous, but stay with me. Coat the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter with oil. This will help it seal to the engine block better. Set the filter aside. With a clean rag, wipe off the metal ring where the oil filter fit, then put the new oil filter on. When it's finger tight, turn it another ¾ turn either buy hand or with the oil filter wrench. Put your sealing washer back in place and thread the drain plug back in. Use the socket wrench to secure it again, but not so tight that you can get it off again. Make sure not to strip it either. Now take the oil pan, milk jug and funnel and pour the oil into the milk jug. If you can, prop it against a wall to make sure you drain all of it into the jug while you continue to work. Get the other funnel and put it into the oil filler hole and pour in the correct amount of oil for your vehicle. Then put the cap back on and collect all of your newspapers and tools. Recycle the used oil containers and put the old oil filter in the Ziploc bag. You can just throw away the newspapers or whatever you used. However, it is illegal to improperly dispose of oil. The fines are numbers that you didn't see until high school math. We'll get to that. Check your oil level using your dipstick. If you're satisfied with that, start your car and let it idle for a few minutes just to get the new oil circulating. Check around and under your car for leaks. Those would be bad. Last, jet on over to one of those places that you opted not to change your oil. They'll take the old oil and filter and properly dispose of them. Go to Jiffy Lube, Grease Monkey, the mechanic on the corner; it really doesn't matter. They'll take it.
Good job! You changed your oil and proved your friends wrong! Just remember to keep track of how far you have to go until your next change on your odometer, and you're car will run like a dream for the full extent of it's life.
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